Gougères MAKES 3 DOZEN I N B U R G U N D Y, where they originated, gougères are considered the perfect hors d’oeuvre—complementary to wine and satisfying to the palate without being filling. According to Jean-Pierre Silva of Le Vieux Moulin in Bouilland, whose recipe this is, the secret of successful gougères is to add the flour all at once and the eggs one at a time. 8 tbsp. butter, cut into pieces I. Preheat oven to 400°. Combine butter, ½ cup of the milk, and ½ cup water in a medium saucepan over high heat. Season generously with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, and when butter has melted, remove pan from heat. Add flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until mixture forms a thick dough and pulls away from the sides of the pan, 1-2 minutes. Return pan to heat for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat. 2. Let dough cool to room temperature, then beat in eggs, one at a time, making sure each egg is completely incorporated into mixture and dough is smooth after each addition. Dough should be thick, shiny, and smooth. Add 1 cup of the cheese and beat in until well combined. 3. Spoon tablespoon-size mounds of dough on nonstick baking sheets, leaving about I between each. Brush tops with remaining ¼ cup milk, then sprinkle with remaining ½ cup cheese. Bake one tray at a time in lower third of oven until gougères have doubled in size and are golden, 20-25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Tips: French grandmothers can make gougers in their sleep—but for the rest of us, despite the simplicity of the recipe, they can be a little tricky. These tips will help: Correct measurements are vital For the flour, fill a dry measuring cup, then sweep it clean with the flat side of a knife. Always use a glass measuring cup for liquids so that you can see the level of the liquid. And be sure that the eggs are graded large, not extra-large or jumbo; this is one case where bigger is not better. Dump the flour into the hot milk and butter all at once, then begin beating mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon The batter should almost seize up and pull away from the sides of the pan. Beat the eggs into the cooled batter one at a time The batter will be slippery and a little hard to beat, but it will eventually absorb the eggs and become a smooth, shiny mass. |